A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, Cole Parry began his career in restaurants dressed in kitchen whites, working as a line cook at Greens in San Francisco. His first job in a dining room, as a busser at Daniel, brought the chance to help inventory the restaurant’s extensive cellars, and with it, a life-long love of wine. After working as a sommelier and wine buyer in other Boulud restaurants, Cole is now the service director at chef Dan Barber’s New York City restaurant, Blue Hill. Cole is passionate about the wines of Western Australia, where his family lives, and New York State, where he has made home.
Overall, 2004 was a interesting vintage across much of France – in parts of Burgundy, for instance, there is fierce debate about the effect of ‘ladybug taint’ in many wines, caused by huge numbers of ladybugs on vines across the region that was pressed along with the grapes 😱
That aside, it was an excellent year for Champagne, and an uneven one for many other regions, with producer quality being the most determinant factor in the wines that really shone. Across France there were many weather challenges, from late May frosts to very wet summers, to uneven ripeness levels in September during the harvest. Talented, experienced winemakers were able to produce serious (if sometimes austere, especially in Bordeaux) wines. A few favorites of ’04:
Rhone:
Bernard Faurie, Hermitage – Classic in every sense of the word
Auguste Clape Cornas – This wine went through a period of being, I would think, kind of written off, but for those who waited, it has developed into a layered, complex, and excellent example of Syrah from an iconic producer.
Domaine de Cristia, Chåteauneuf du Pape “Cuvée Renaissance” – Juicy and fragrant, and very well-balanced.
Champagne:
Almost every Champagne house declared a vintage for 2004 as conditions were perfect and yields were solid across the board. For my money if you want to drink something delightful yet attainable Taittinger Comtes de Champagne ’04 is fantastic. Jacquesson Dizy-Corne Bautray ’04 is another amazing bottle, although a little harder to find now. Krug, Billecart, Roederer, Salon, etc etc all produced some very good vintage wines.
Burgundy:
This is a very polarizing vintage for Burgundy and many of my friends are super-wary of 2004 wines. That being said, Roumier Clos de la Bussiere has been nothing but delicious in the examples I’ve had. Less frequently, Joseph Roty Charmes Chambertin ’04 was an amazing find (albeit quite savory) on a wine list a year back and I can highly recommend it.
Others:
Domaine Tempier “Tourtine”, Bandol – A surprisingly fresh and bright vintage for this wine, and absolutely delicious
Olga Raffault Chinon “Les Picasses” – An inexpensive bottle but so rewarding; earthy and balanced and a perfect complement to a winter menu.